Shelter and Housing

Some kind of shelter, either in the form of trees, sheds or barns is usually necessary.

In considering the type of shelters needed, it is important to keep in mind that llamas treasure their freedom to come and go.  They don’t like dark stalls or sheds which give the feeling of being shut in.  They are more apt to use a shelter with large doors and windows that give a feeling of openness.  If an animal is forced to stay outside, it may suffer.

Shade is essential in warm climates.  Llamas may suffer heat stress when the temperature rises above 95 degrees.  Although they may at times lie stretched out in the sun when it is very hot, they will more often seek shade.  In areas of  high temperatures of 110 degrees and over, owners provide sprinklers, streams, ponds and wading pools for cooling.

Young shade trees should be wrapped with wire to prevent debarking by nibbling llamas.

Cold climate housing depends on your weather severity and the wooliness of the llamas.  Llamas native habitat provides an average extreme temperature of 20 to 55 degrees.  Although it commonly freezes at night, the temperature rarely falls below 10 degrees.  In areas where the temperature does not drop lower than 15 degrees for long periods of time, three-sided “loafing” sheds are usually sufficient.  They should be oriented to provide maximum protection from the wind and storms.  In regions where temperatures range frequently from -20 to 15 degrees, large barns or enclosed shelters work best.  If temperatures remain below -20 degrees for extended periods, insulated, heated barns are required.  Provide extra feed in cold weather and make sure your buildings have adequate ventilation for fresh air and straw bedding.

One method of grooming is clipping.  Start by securing a 4 inch row of wood down the back of the llama with clothespins or large hair clips.  Cut below this ridge in 1 inch horizontal layers from withers to rump.  Continue down until one side is completed and then do the other.  Release the secured ridge and brush down.  Clipping is especially useful versus shearing due to the fact that guardian llama’s wool is often matted and too thick to brush through.  Clipping can also be done with inexpensive scissors versus pricey shears.

Preventative Medicine

Your basic vaccination program should include a CDT (tetanus toxoid and Clostridium perfringens type C & D).  These are the same vaccinations given to sheep and goats.

Parasite Control 

Llamas share the same species of worms that cattle and sheep have.  Treatments vary with the parasite, geographic location and management practices used. 

Feeding Facilities  

Most llamas prefer to feed outdoors but they do not like wet hay.  Waste can be avoided if some feeding mangers are located inside for wet weather.  To decrease chances of llamas picking up parasites, they should not be fed on the ground.  Guardian llamas need a maintenance diet of 8 to 10% protein.  Quality grass hays will suffice to provide adequate protein intake.  Loose salt should be offered free choice in a container sheltered from weather.  

Catch Corrals and Chutes

Small catch corrals or pens are necessary for the ease of management.  Build the catch corrals in the area that the llamas are accustomed to entering for food and shelter. 

A chute built into the corner of a corral aids in the handling of routine health procedures and medical emergencies.  A simple chute can be built using sturdy wooden posts and three fence poles for each side.  The chute should be 2.5 feet by 5.5 feet, with the top pole about 45 inches from the ground.  It does not need to be open at the front since llamas easily learn to back out.  If needed, removable plywood side panels can be wired to the side poles to form solid walls.

When llamas are kept with other stock such as horses, goats or sheep, they should be observed to ensure they receive their fair share of feed and shelter.  Greedier animals will prevent llamas from eating.

Catching A Llama

Herd the llama into a corner or small space where escape is impossible.  They will surrender peacefully when you allow a few seconds for them to adjust.  If you feed in a barn or small pen at the same time each day,  you can wait until they go in and simply close the gate and move the animal into the corner.

Slowly place your hand on the llamas back and move your body along the animal and either halter it or “ear” it by running your hands up both sides of the animal’s neck. 

Fencing

Adequate, safe fencing for llamas varies enormously.  In some instances a 3.5 foot high two pole fence may suffice.  In other circumstances, a 5.5 foot chainlink or v-mesh fence might be necessary.  Field fence (rolled wire) that has smaller openings at the bottom and larger ones at the top works well.   Some llama owners use high tensile fence with success.  Any fence with squares larger than 6 inches can cause problems since llamas stick their heads and legs through the openings.  How llamas behave in certain situations determines the choice of  fence.  When they are content in their living groups and are left with their usual companions, they generally will respect a standard 3.5 - 4 foot fence.  However, they are very agile and can easily jump a 4.5 foot fence when they feel the need to do so. 

As long as llamas have adequate feed in their pastures, they seldom put pressure on fences to reach more.

Safety Tips

Because llamas have excellent eyesight and agility, they are not prone to injury.  However, they like to stick their heads through loops of dangling ropes, hay strings, slots in feed racks, gates and fences.  Therefore, maintain an environment free of potentially harmful objects.